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Salumi-TherapyIt was an invitation I couldn't refuse, from my friend Ivan Bertelli, host and manic animator of Hosteria da Ivan outside Parma. I was invited for a session of salumoterapia. Think Italian spa meets cured pork, a re-tox program. Ivan, like most Italians, is a spa veteran and pairs this ...
Winter LayersWafer cookies and gelato cones in Bertinoro.Taking advantage of Italy's post-war gelato boom, Attilio Babbi founded his cone factory in 1953 in Bertinoro, near the coastal towns of Rimini and Ravenna. But gelato is a seasonal item, almost ignored in Italy's cold winter months. So beginning in 1958, Babbi decided ...
Hitting a Gelato Bull's-EyeGreatest gelato in Bologna.I was first attracted to a fantastic gelateria in the center of Bologna by the shop's image of a bull sporting two ice-cream-cone horns and a hint of a smile as it licks a third cone. The shop's name "Il Gelatauro" fuses gelato with the Italian word ...
Modena's Superb TrattoriaDining and shopping at Osteria Giusti, in Modena.Hosteria Giusti is the trattoria of my dreams. Its official address in Modena, vicolo del Squallore 46, is almost impossible to find, and the owner (dad Nano Morandi) used to wait outside the door of the Giusti shop on a main street (via ...
Culatello SupremoAll about Culatello and the competition in San Secondo.The Emilia-Romagna region takes its pork seriously. Culatello, which comes from the Parma area, is considered by most porcophiles to be the finest expression of the pig in all of Italy, if not the world.The hind muscle of a pig's thigh - ...
Bettering ParmigianoParmigiano Reggiano from red cows.Parmigiano-Reggiano, its golden-yellow, craggy surface faintly flecked with cream-colored dots, its mellow flavors accented with crunch, is surely the greatest cheese in the world - totally unrelated to the powdered stuff in the green can or anything pre-grated. Parmigiano (Italians shorten the name) has a lengthy ...