The first zucchini of the season, tender, tiny, and a bag of zucchini flowers from my favorite farmers, the Innocenti brothers are celebrated in my kitchen. In Italian zucchini is female (zucchina, singular; zucchine, plural), a vegetable that's the result of the small but functional female flower's fertilization by the big flashy, stemmed male flower (il fiore, masculine). After the act, males are unproductive, fried in batter by most Italian cooks. Not me. I stuff male flowers with ricotta--put ricotta in a pastry bag, insert into flower, and squeeze (neatness doesn't count), put stuffed flowers in a layer in a non-stick pan, drizzle with a little extra virgin, cover and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes--the moisture from the ricotta will steam the flowers. Chopped male or female flowers, sautéed in extra virgin with garlic, make a fantastic sauce for pasta or can flavor risotto. Italian farmers sell the female vegetable with its flower attached, clearly not practical for supermarket sales, since female flowers wilt and die rather quickly. I make zucchini carpaccio, slicing the vegetable into thin rounds with a ceramic blade mandolin, straight onto the platter, and use a potato peeler to slice strips of Parmigiano or Pecorino on top, season with salt and pepper, then drizzle with extra virgin and garnish with chopped female flowers and the season's first basil.
I sauté thinly sliced zucchini with extra virgin, green just-formed but skin-less garlic and basil, to serve as a side dish, with leftovers used as a condiment for pasta with the addition of Parmigiano-Reggiano or as the vegetal element in a frittata. If I had access to a garden, I'd pick the tender first leaves, zucchini tendrils, and stew them in extra virgin with garlic, zucchini chunks, and chopped flowers, a dish I've enjoyed in Campania, Puglia and Sicilia. Beg your source to pick small females and harvest male flowers and maybe even some tendrils. And enjoy zucchini at its best, in season.
-June 2010 link to article published in The Atlantic Magazine