Fabio's Creamless Creamy Squash Soup

This recipe is from my cookbook Red, White & Greens. I was inspired by chef Fabio Picchi of the Florentine restaurant Cibréo, where this creamy-yet-creamless soup is a signature first course. Fabio likes to use meat stock as the base for the soup, but I think the flavor is nearly as rich using only water.

Fabio's Creamless Creamy Squash Soup

Makes about 6 cups

1 celery rib, chopped

1 medium carrot, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

2 tablespoons fine-quality extra-virgin olive oil (preferably Tuscan) plus additional for drizzling

1 lb winter squash such as butternut, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 lb boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 whole fresh peperoncino (small hot Italian green pepper) or 1/8 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes

2 teaspoons coarse sea salt

3 1/2 cups boiling water plus additional for thinning

1 crisp amaretto (Italian almond macaroon), finely crushed (2 tablespoons)

Cook celery, carrot, and onion in 2 tablespoons oil in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender but not browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Add squash, potatoes, peperoncino, and sea salt. Stir in 3 1/2 cups boiling water and simmer, covered, until vegetables are very tender, about 20 minutes.

Remove and discard peperoncino (if using pepper flakes, leave in soup). Purée soup in batches in a blender (use caution when blending hot liquids), adding more water to thin to desired consistency.

Serve soup drizzled with additional oil and sprinkled with amaretto crumbs.